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#1 |
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Fight Apathy... or don't
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So all is going well until i get to the point where i have to remove the roll pin from the flex joint. This is the only thing holding the rack in now. Of course the FSM calls for "special tool 6831A" to remove the damn thing, which i obviously don't have.
Any ideas on how i might be able to remove this thing? ![]()
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#2 | |
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Senior Member
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I can't really see the pin and don't know if I'm looking at it's top or bottom so I'm not sure what might work or not as an improvised "special tool 6831A" The obvious thing is whether or not the pin is threaded inside, for the 'tool' or what.
![]() http://www.millerspecialtools.spx.co...x?id=204&gid=2 Doesn't seem like much goes on with it other than it locks on the pin and get pulled out while turning the nut. Quote:
EDIT: Well one guy said he just used a hammer and punch to get it out of a 1st gen, maybe if you have spares or can't figure something else out: http://www.moparchat.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6239
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And then there was one. Last edited by windowpane : 07-26-2008 at 01:19 AM. |
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#3 |
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Meet the Twins!
Join Date: Oct 2007
Name: Tired of a Lying sack of S**T spreading slander!
Location: Sweet Home Alabama
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I'd say that's the bottom of the roll pin from the picture. As mentioned above you should be able to tap it out with a suitable sized punch and a hammer if needed. The closest sized punch that's just under the outer diameter is preferable.
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Rule-Less Bastard! To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Entertaining quote of the month: "You would haul that all the way to Ross's for a muffler clamp???? What a dip shit, crawl under the car and fix it yourself." Last edited by Ronbo : 07-26-2008 at 02:10 AM. |
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#4 |
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Site Owner/Administrator
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Ugh, roll pins are such a PITA. They use them on guns a lot and they always drive me crazy. If you can find an allen wrench nearly the same size as it, you can hammer it through with that and you'll have the hook to grab on to to pull the wrench back out.
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#5 |
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Fight Apathy... or don't
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Tried alll those and no luck. I decided, oh, about 4 hours ago to just put it back together and try and get the tool tomorrow, and do you think i could get the inner tie rod bolts back in?
I can't see how you can get a good enough swing at it with a hammer and punch. I tried using a socket slightly smaller in diameter than the pin, couldn't get it to budge. Not on your effing life. A 2 hour job that is still not complete and it's now 2.28am. I am tempted to get it towed down to BigO tires and let them at it. Once that pin is out, it should be no more than an hour to get the new rack in. ****ing cars.
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#6 |
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Site Owner/Administrator
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As I recall, that pin is the reason neuroticdave's took the shop like 3 days. He said it gave them hell. Sorry for your trouble Lee.
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To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. I'll keep my freedom, my guns, and my money; and you can keep the "CHANGE". |
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#7 |
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Former Murder M Boss
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Steve, youve been listening in class!
Yes, the roll pin took those n00bs at Pep boys for a ride when I had my rack done. Here is the How-to on replacing the rack. I hope it helps. Power Steering Rack REMOVAL & INSTALLATION The power steering gear should not be disassembled in an attempt to service or adjust. If a malfunction or oil leak should occur, the complete rack and pinion steering gear assembly should be replaced. Note that Chrysler LH platform vehicles use two different power rack and pinion steering gears; standard and an available electronically controlled, variable-assist speed-proportional power steering rack and pinion assembly. The removal and installation procedures are similar and the following procedures should suffice for both units. And, as with the standard unit, the complete variable-assist rack and pinion assembly should be replaced in event of malfunction, although the solenoid control valve control module and solenoid control valve may be replaced separately. Disconnect negative battery cable. If necessary, disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle body and remove throttle cable bracket. Remove both wiper arm assemblies from the wiper arm pivots. Remove the cowl closure panel and weatherstrip as an assembly from the cowl. Disconnect the wiper module wiring harness from the vehicle wiring harness. Remove the wiper module assembly from the vehicle cowl panel. Disconnect the air plenum from the throttle body, PCV make up air tube and the idle air control motor. Remove he plenum from the right side of the vehicle through the wiper module area. Remove the vacuum connector from the power brake booster at the intake manifold. Turn the front wheels to the full left position. Then turn the wheels back in the other direction until the roll pin in the lower steering coupler is accessible. Turn the ignition key switch to the LOCK position to keep the steering column from rotating after the coupler is removed from the steering gear. If the steering column shaft rotates beyond the normal number of turns in either direction, the air bag clock spring will be damaged. Using paint, mark the steering coupling and steering gear shaft for orientation. Using the correct size punch, remove the roll pin from the steering coupling. If equipped with a brake pedal travel sensor, remove the pedal travel sensor from the brake booster as follows: Pump the brake pedal approximately 20 times. This will bleed the vacuum stored in the booster. Remove the wiring harness connector from the sensor. Using a small flat tipped tool, lift the retainer ring from the notch. Then remove the retaining ring from the grommet. Remove the pedal travel sensor from the brake booster by carefully pulling it straight out of its mounting grommet. Do not twist the sensor. Loosen and remove the two nuts attaching the master cylinder to the brake booster. Remove the master cylinder with the brake lines connected, and position aside. Remove the power steering pressure hose and return hose from the power steering gear. Bend back the retaining tabs on bolt attaching the tie rods to the steering gear and remove the bolts. Lay the tie rods, bolts and plate as an assembly on the bellhousing of the transaxle. If the rack and pinion steering gear unit being removed is a speed proportional steering gear, disconnect the vehicle wiring harness from the solenoid control module. Remove the four bolts attaching the steering gear assembly to the crossmember. Slide the steering gear forward in the vehicle to disengage steering coupler from the steering gear shaft. After gear is disengaged, do not rotate the steering gear shaft. Remove the steering gear assembly from the vehicle through the area in the cowl from which the windshield wiper module was previously removed. To install: If a replacement rack is being installed, grasp the shaft of the steering gear and rotate until steering gear center take off is in a full left turn position. Install the steering gear into the vehicle through the wiper module opening in cowl. If the original gear is being installed, align the paint mark on the steering coupler with the mark on the steering gear shaft and install the steering gear shaft into the steering gear coupler. If a replacement rack is being installed, the steering gear shaft and steering coupler must be aligned. Rotate the steering gear shaft back from the full left turn position until the master spline on the steering gear shaft is aligned with the master spline on the steering coupler. At this point, install the steering gear into the coupler. Align the steering gear with the mounting holes in the crossmember and install bolts. Be sure the brake line routing clip is installed under the left steering gear mounting bracket. Tighten the mounting bolts to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm). Install the steering coupler to steering gear shaft retaining roll pin until it is flush with the top edge of the steering coupler. If equipped with 3.5L engine, correct orientation of the power steering pressure hose at the power steering pump must be maintained. Be sure the power steering hose is installed in orientation clip at the power steering pump prior to tightening tube fitting. Attach the power steering pressure and return lines onto the proper ports of the power steering gear. Tighten both fittings to 23 ft. lbs. (31 Nm). Align the center take off on the steering gear with the tie rod assemblies. Install the tie rod attaching bolts and washers into the steering gear assembly. Be sure the washers are installed between the tie rods and the steering gear. Tighten the tie rod to steering gear attaching bolts to 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm). Bend the retaining tabs against the heads of the bolts. Install the pedal travel sensor retainer ring on the travel sensor grommet in the vacuum booster. The tab on the retaining ring should be located in top notch of the mounting grommet. Sparingly lubricate pedal travel sensor O-ring with fresh brake fluid. Install the pedal travel O-ring into the pedal travel sensor mounting grommet. Coat the end of the sensor with fresh brake fluid and install by pushing straight into the mounting grommet on the brake booster until the tab on the sensor is past the retaining ring on grommet. Install the wire harness connector to the pedal travel sensor. Install the master cylinder and tighten nuts to 250 inch lbs. (28 Nm). Install the power booster vacuum hose to the intake manifold. Install the windshield wiper module to the cowl panel. Reconnect the electrical harness to the module. If removed, install the air intake plenum and reconnect to the idle air control motor, PCV make up air tube and throttle body. Install the windshield wiper module assembly into the vehicle cowl area and reconnect the wiring harness from the wiper module to the vehicle wiring harness. Install the cowl closure panel and tighten the six mounting screws. Install the weather strip on shock towers. Install the windshield washer hoses on the wiper arms, then install arms on the windshield wiper pivots. If removed, install the throttle cable to the bracket and install to the throttle body. Reconnect the wiring harness from the solenoid control valve onto the solenoid control module. Be sure that the harness connector seal is in good condition before installation. Refill the pump reservoir to the correct lever with Mopar Power Steering Fluid or equivalent. Do not use any type of automatic transmission fluid. Start the engine and turn the steering wheel several times from stop to stop to bleed the air from the fluid in the system. Check and add fluid as required. Adjust the front suspension toe setting.
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#8 | |
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Fight Apathy... or don't
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Quote:
Off to Ho depot to get a set of punches
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#9 |
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Former Murder M Boss
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I think removing the master cylinders and such might give you some more room to work with. Ive read of guys removing the plenum and such as well to give them more options in working with the rack.
Good luck.
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Name: Marty
Location: Gainesville, VA and Ypsilanti, MI
Posts: 756
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If have used BOLTS in the past to punch stuff like that out. Like a punch, use a bolt that is slightly smaller vs the opening and start whacking away....
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