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Old 06-06-2010, 03:58 PM   #11
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I pulled everything apart today, and noticed my ball joint boot has a big crack in it. I just replaced the control arm last year, so I suspect I messed the boot up using my ball joint breaker ("pickle fork"). I cleaned it up and have RTV silicone on it now; I'll probably wait until tomorrow or later this afternoon before putting it back on. I'd rather this be a short-term fix while I find a replacement. Does anyone know if you can buy just a replacement boot? I went to three auto parts stores to try and find one today with no luck...

Thanks!

In all truthfulness, my boots are cracked/torn for the past 6 years and my ball joints are still tight as hell.
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Old 06-06-2010, 08:36 PM   #12
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Yeah, I patched it up the best I could with silicone. Probably won't hold out for very long, but oh well.

Had a flat tire for no apparent reason, so put my spare on then worked on getting the new halfshaft in. I can't figure out if I'm going crazy, because I still hear the noise, but it's not nearly as bad. Maybe the halfshaft noise was covering up something else. I think it might be coming from the driver side now; since I have an extra wheel hub I think I'll switch out the driver's hub (as long as this one separates from the driver side halfshaft...) and see. I'll be able to find out more driving to work the next couple days.
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Old 06-25-2010, 10:53 PM   #13
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Well I've been procrastinating hardcore the past couple weeks. I finally got a look at the driver's side of the driveline. First thing I noticed after getting the brakes off was a gash in the outer CV boot and quite a bit of grease piled up on the lower control arm. I cleaned up everything then injected some good grease into the CV joint through the cut in the boot. After that I tried to seal up the boot with silicone. I'll let it dry at least overnight and take it for a test drive. I don't think this will get me by for very long, but I figure if it sounds / feels better for a little bit that will be clear indication that the CV joint is dried out and bad, which would make me feel better about replacing the halfshaft since I would know for sure what part is bad.

We'll see how it goes on the test drive...
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Old 07-25-2010, 06:39 PM   #14
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I ended up replacing the steering knuckle, halfshaft and hub on the driver side as well. Either the hub or the halfshaft were bad, because I no longer have the noise or vibration from before. Now I just need to figure out how to remove the ABS wheel speed sensor from my old knuckle in order to put it in the new one...
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Old 07-25-2010, 06:46 PM   #15
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10mm socket or wrench............
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Old 08-02-2010, 03:19 PM   #16
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10mm socket or wrench............
Then I have to figure out how to pull it; they're in there tight... Learned the hard way that you can't pound the sucker out from the back.
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Old 08-11-2010, 10:37 PM   #17
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yes, they can get stuck pretty tight.
have a new one ready, and a drill bit removes the old easy(don't forget the drill)
forget which size.
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Old 08-30-2010, 11:22 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by linkinparker View Post
I ended up replacing the steering knuckle, halfshaft and hub on the driver side as well. Either the hub or the halfshaft were bad, because I no longer have the noise or vibration from before. Now I just need to figure out how to remove the ABS speed sensor from my old knuckle in order to put it in the new one...
I just bought one for my car and I also need to know how to place this in my car.
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