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Thread: Noise from brake pedal on release?

  1. #1
    Miracle Whip treyhunnid83's Avatar
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    Default Noise from brake pedal on release?

    Wired phenomenon...When i release the brake pedal a whistle or squeal is heard. Any1 exp. this? Its definitely coming from the pedal area, as i can have the car idle, in park, or even off, and i can hear the noise when the pedal is released.

    can this be fixed with lubricant? replace brake booster? nose sucks ass!
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    If it's like a high-pitched air whistle that can be there when the pedal is held in a certain position and not a metallic squeek as the pedal is moving, definitely the booster needs replacing.
    Last edited by Peva; 04-08-2010 at 07:15 PM.

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    yup sounds like a leaky booster

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    Miracle Whip treyhunnid83's Avatar
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    dammit. is the booster serviceable or need to be replaced. what do they usually run? is this sumthing i can get off a junk yard car? or better to buy new? OEM or aftermarket?

    Brake booster, all models
    00-01 $272.00 $181.11

    WTF!?!
    Last edited by treyhunnid83; 04-09-2010 at 01:37 PM.
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    Advance has them for around $85, net after core return. I've got them on both my Concordes. NAPA has the same part from the same rebuilder for over $100 - so in this case, no reason to get it at NAPA because it's the same part.

    Figure it this way: Even though this is a rebuilt part, the liability that a rebuilder would risk prevents them from cutting corners, so in this case, a rebuilt part should be trustworthy.

    With the price being that low, I don't see any use in going with a junkyard part. For one thing, the junk yard part is already going to have a bit of water in it (from condensation - they usually require replacing in freezing weather because of the buildup of water beyond what the internal valving can tolerate), so it's got a limited remaining life.

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    Miracle Whip treyhunnid83's Avatar
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    thanx, is a this a weekend job? or something a quick as changing the brakes?
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    Probably a 1-1/2 to 2 hour job first time. You need to remove the wipers, cowl, and strut tower brace. Master cylinder is on flexible braided hose, so no need to open the brake lines (that's a huge plus) - remove the two nuts on the master cylinder-to-booster flange - stack some socket extensions together to move ratchet forward so it clears obstacles when removing those nuts. Then MC pulls forward and over to the side. Pull vacuum hose loose from booster. Remove the four nuts on cabin side of firewall, remove spring clip to remove brake pedal arm pin (remove clip carefully so you can re-use it) - tight working room, but just take your time.

    You'll likely notice a *lot* of rust on the pushrod at the front (master cylinder side) of the old booster. Smear the rod on the new booster with a light coating of silicone grease. When you're done, smear silicone sealer along the top of the flange joint between MC and booster to seal that up so water can't enter from falling from above (in case something springs a leak or you like to wash your engine). That should prevent rust on the new rod.

    After you get your old booster off, if you shake it around, you'll probably hear water sloshing around inside from an accumulation of condensation over the years - that's normal (unless maybe you live in a real dry climate).

    Let us know how it goes.
    Last edited by Peva; 04-09-2010 at 07:40 PM.

    '98 Concorde LXi - Later Concorde EL gages (black)
    '99 Concorde LX - LHS gages (white) - HIR bulbs

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    nice writeup peva. You cant beat the price of a remanufactured one , buying a junkyard part will only have you doing it again down the road.

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    Quote Originally Posted by joewho View Post
    nice writeup peva...
    Thanks, JW.

    '98 Concorde LXi - Later Concorde EL gages (black)
    '99 Concorde LX - LHS gages (white) - HIR bulbs

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    the noise seem to have stopped on it own. the weather warmed up. and its been a good 3 days of quiet braking. maybe ill hold off on the repair to see if this lasts.
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