95 Eagle Inner Tie Rod Bushings

[ESI-95]

I have a 95 Eagle Vision ESI with ~120K miles. I am prepping to repair the inner tie rod bushings to correct what I have come to learn is a MAJOR Chrysler design flaw for the LH line. http://www.dodgechryslersteeringproblems.com/ Nevertheless, we have made it this far on the original equipment. We have not had anything more than the loose steering and clunking noises that I am sure is familiar to a lot of the LH forum readers. At this point, I see it as required maintenance.

So a few questions from anyone who has already been down this path: I understand that I need to use a Chrysler tie rod socket to loosen and remove the bolts that secure the inner tie rods. Can I anticipate the need to pry the ends loose from the steering gear?

Second question, the Chrysler service bulletin that addresses this repair requires the use of Miller Special Tool 8438 to remove the old bushing. The same tool is used to install the new bushing. Since I am using the MOOG bushing repair kit, can I use something else to unseat the old bushing? The Miller tool retails for over $200; too expensive for a one time fix. I doubt a Chrysler shop will loan one.

This question is tied to the last one: from what info I could find on the web about the MOOG replacement bushings, my impression is that it is a relatively simple process to install the new bushings. Are tools, regular or special, of any kind needed to install the bushings into the tie rod ends?

Should I remove the whole tie-rod assembly or mark the position of the tie-rod at the sleeve and remove it there?

Final question is a two-parter: first - the Chrysler SB calls out new mounting bolts and washers to be used when reinstalling the inner tie rod ends. From what I understand, this is to allow for increased amount of torque used on the bolt when securing with a torque wrench. I assume that is the torque setting I should use with the MOOG bushings, is that correct? secondly - the SB says to install the washers between the tie rod end and the mounting surface on the gear. Is this required when using the MOOG bushings as well? I figure to comply with the service bulletin's installation procedure and torque specs would not be wrong, but I am looking for feedback from anyone with a simliar inner tie rod experience.

I know this is a mouth-full, but it seems like there are some knowledgeable folks in this forum. I would rather hear it from you than a lie from some shiester.

[intrepidhero]

eh, I have done this repair on my 94 intrepid with the 3.3. Not a hard repair job, but a tedious pain in the ass repair job. get the bushings from advance auto or oreillys. they will give you a split bushing set, so you do not have to press them in. more than likely, your old ones will be worn out enough that you won't need a tool to press them out anyways. The bushing kit will cost you less than $20. you have to remove the windshield wiper assembly to get to them. you will need a 22mm socket and a lot of patience to re install them. some kits come with new bolts that are 15mm instead of the 22mm, and are a bit easier to work with. but whatever size bolts you put in, make sure you torque them to the correct specs (I am not sure as to what it is offhand, I believe 150lbs.. but check to make sure!!!) or you will end up having your bolts break. Not a good thing...

when you take the bolts out, try to do one side at a time only. this will help greatly in lining up the bolts to the steering rack.

in answer to your question at the bottom of the post, yes you want to make sure the washers and plate are installed in the correct sequence. Note how your old ones come out...and yes I would install them with the Moog bushings or any other brand bushings you get. as for new bolts, I reused my old ones, as they were not damaged, and my bushing set did not come with new. I did my bushings about 3 years ago, and no problems. Due to the pain in the rear procedure that this is, If I do it again, I would probably go ahead and replace them. Not that much money, and hey, it is your steering you are talking about.

AJ

[ESI-95]

intrepidhero,

Thanks for the answers and additional advice. I plan on changing the bushings this coming weekend. I'll let you know how much fun I have.

[Ronbo]

Inner tie rod bushings that have lasted 120k miles are a MAJOR Chrysler design flaw? Basically the same rack and bushings are used on the 2nd gen LH and I've had a few of them with over 120k so I'm not sure why it's MAJOR!!!

[DrDodge]

slow down ron,, he saw that website that we messed with a few months ago
I think eagle sent the guy a email, and got a nasty reply

120K on inners? yep were all gonna die from them,,

[EagleESi]

I do believe, I have soem pictures of that area if you want hem.


If you have the 3.3 is is way easier to do with the upper intake off, which takes less than 15 minutes to take off. Really Easy. BUt I did do it the first time with the intake on, I ended up with scratched and bloodied hands, but a job done right.

The OE bushings are a bitch to get out, but if you have a Bench pres or even a vise with a set of sockets, you can get them out.

I do believe the inner tie rods will have to come out o remove the bushings, I suggest doing one side at a time. And taking your time.

Because of the way I drive, which is extremely hard I go through bushings and sway bar links. So I ve gotten pretty good at doing this.

Other than that, I believe they have already answer most of your questions, if you want some picture or advice or help let me know.




And yeah, I sent that Tool a email. He didnt like what I had to say.

[In_The_Pink]

There's a good "How To" (with pictures) for this repair over at allpar.com

As mentioned, remove the inner two nuts, remove the outer tie rod ends from the strut assembly, remove and replace the bushings, and re-install. Not hard, just a bit hard to reach the two inner nuts.

[ESI-95]

Eagle-ESI,

Pictures would be great if you have them, if not no worries. thanks.

[EagleESi]

Pictures would be great, thanks.

Just got done looking in my picture folder, and apparently, they arnt the ones I thought they were.

I would offer That I can go take pictures of the area you'll be working, but then again, you have a view already.

Sorry. I seriously Thought I had taken pictures of the first time or second time I did the bushings.

[ESI-95]

In the Pink,

Awesome, thank you.

[EagleESi]

Awesome, thank you.

I'm still sure I tok pictures cause I take alot of them, I just can't find them.


But, if you have a request, I can still see what I can do. Believe me, its easy to do, the bushings and taking the upper intake off.

Like I sad, just do one side at a time, it makes things easier when you go to bolt the inner back in!

[ESI-95]

Ronbo,

I was referring to the data I saw where because of where the inner tie rod ends mount to the steering gear the bushings are susceptible to the heat generated by the engine. You have to admit, this really seems to be a common problem among the LH line. Don't get me wrong, we love our Eagle, but based on all I have read, it seems Chrysler could have addressed this better.

[ESI-95]

In the Pink,

I just went to the Allpar site. What a great site! I think I am set now. I plan on doing the repair this weekend. I do plan on getting the new bolts and washers called out in the Chrysler SB.

Thanks to everybody for the helpful feedback.

[EagleESi]

In the Pink,

I just went to the Allpar site. What a great site! I think I am set now. I plan on doing the repair this weekend. I do plan on getting the new bolts and washers called out in the Chrysler SB.

Thanks to everybody for the helpful feedback.

Good Luck!

Remember, it is easier than what it looks!