View Full Version : How To Install Angle-base Headlight Bulbs in 300M & 2nd gen Concorde & LHS
(Note: This How-To applies to 2nd Generation Concordes, LHS's, and 300M's. Intrepid head lice – err – I mean headlights can accept angle-base bulbs without any modifications.)
This How-To is in three posts:
1st Post: FAQ’s
2nd Post: PART 1 – Complete Instructions for OEM (or TYC brand) Headlight Assemblies
3rd Post: PART 2 – Complete Instructions for Eagle Eyes brand Headlight Assemblies
FAQ's
Are there differences between OEM and aftermarket headlight assemblies that might prevent this How-To from working for my 300M/2nd gen. Concorde/LHS?
No. There are two types of headlight assemblies commonly available for our cars: (1) OEM type and (2) Eagle Eye aftermarket. This How-To covers both types.
(Note that TYC makes the OEM headlights – TYC is also found in the aftermarket world. If you have purchased aftermarket headlights, and they are TYC brand, follow the directions for the OEM headlights.)
Why do this?
This simple modification will totally free you up to use any angle-based 9005/9006 or similar bulbs. (BTW - I *highly* recommend the HIR-type bulbs for better visibility and safety over standard 9005 and 9006 bulbs – no blue tinting, honest significant increase in brightness without annoying other motorists, bulb life similar to standard 9005/9006, and much more affordable than HID’s. For technical and purchasing information, see: http://dastern.torque.net/Mods/HIRmod.html and http://store.candlepower.com/hirlighting.html - current pricing is $23.95 each.)
This method of adapting angle-base bulbs to our headlights requires no modification whatsoever to the bulbs nor to the common Eagle Eyes aftermarket headlight assembly (however, an easy, quick grinding modification is needed to the OEM type headlight assembly). If replacement of a headlight assembly due to accident or other damage becomes necessary after this mod is completed, the special clips can readily be transferred to the new headlight assembly (of the same type).
What’s involved?
(1) Make a bulb retention clip out of spring wire (also called music, or piano, wire) for each bulb socket according to the detailed instructions given in this How-To – 4 clips per vehicle. (It takes about 20 minutes to make each clip.)
(2) Do a small amount of grinding of one area of each socket (this step is required ONLY for OEM/TYC assemblies – NOT needed for Eagle Eyes assemblies).
To help keep the steps simple and clear, this How-To is divided into two self-contained sets of instructions: One set (PART 1) for OEM (or TYC brand) headlight assemblies, the other (PART 2) for Eagle Eyes headlight assemblies.
How do I know which type of headlight assembly I have?
Of course, if you know for certain that your headlight assemblies are what came on your car from the factory, they will be the OEM type. Most of the headlights on ebay are Eagle Eyes. Not sure which you have? Look at the photos below.
The OEM (TYC brand) type assemblies will have a two-part black plastic ring assembly on each bulb socket. One of the two ring parts twists in and out of place to install and remove the bulb. The other ring part (lower, and larger in diameter) is stationary, held in place by three screws.
Proceed to Part 1 (the next post) if your headlight assembly bulb socket area looks like the photos below.
Left photo: Both rings and straight-base bulb installed – screws partially hidden under wings of inner ring.
Right photo: Inner ring and bulb removed – the 3 screws now visible.
http://images110.fotki.com/v1114/photos/4/42816/5829567/001OEM-vi.jpg http://images34.fotki.com/v1079/photos/4/42816/5829567/002OEM-vi.jpg
The Eagle Eyes headlight assemblies have a one-piece clear plastic ring – also held in place by three screws. (Note that the Eagle Eyes bulb retention ring is very poorly designed – how well the ring holds the bulb in place depends on the dimensional details of a particular brand of bulb being used – most bulbs fit loosely. This creates beam focus and shake problems – very annoying and unsafe. Replacing the ring used on the Eagle Eyes headlight assembly with the wire retention clip of this How-To will totally eliminate the problem, and the result will be very stable.
Proceed to Part 2 (3rd post) if your headlight assembly bulb socket area looks like the photo below.
Single clear plastic ring held by 3 screws (shown with straight-base bulb installed):
http://images32.fotki.com/v1063/photos/4/42816/5829567/003EE-vi.jpg
PART 1: Complete Instructions for OEM (or TYC Brand) Headlight Assemblies
MATERIALS REQUIRED (per vehicle – to do 2 headlight assemblies, 4 bulbs):
Item 1
Qty. 13" (330 mm) long
Spring wire Ø0.041" (recommend stainless steel for corrosion resistance – McMaster-Carr P/N 9495K84, ¼ lb. – 55 ft. – approx. $7US)
The recommended wire:
http://images32.fotki.com/v1110/photos/4/42816/5829567/0_041wire-vi.jpg
Note: Wire cut from a hardware store spring such as that shown in the photo below with enough straight section and of suitable diameter (up to Ø0.049") could be used. They will not be stainless steel, and so will be subject to corrosion. The recommended 0.041" spring wire diameter was found to be ideal for ease of bending and achieving a good bulb retention spring force. If the spring wire is too thick and stiff, it could be difficult to shape with simple hand tools (i.e., needle nose pliers), and can apply too much force and break the plastic of the headlight assembly if shaping and adjustment of the retainer is not close to perfect.
Wire from a hardware store spring can be used, though not ideal (see above explanation):
http://images34.fotki.com/v1077/photos/4/42816/5829567/101201-vi.jpg
Item 2
Qty. 8
#4 x 3/8" long pan-head self-tapping screw (recommend McMaster-Carr P/N 94629A550, box of 100, stainless steel with type 25 threads, which are ideal for this type of plastic – approx. $4US)
Item 3
Qty. – as needed (these are to use in case the threads in the headlight assembly strip out with #4 screws – you may not need any of these; max. needed would be 8 if all holes were to strip out – not very likely)
#6 x 3/8" long pan-head self-tapping screw (recommend McMaster-Carr P/N 94629A670, box of 100, same type as Item 2 above, except #6 – approx. $5US)
#4 and #6 screws of the type recommended:
http://images34.fotki.com/v1124/photos/4/42816/5829567/Screws-vi.jpg
(Note: McMaster-Carr: www.mcmaster.com)
TOOLS NEEDED:
• T-10 (Torx™) wrench for removing the bulb retainer screws in some OEM assemblies
• #1 Phillips screwdriver
• #2 Phillips screwdriver
• Handheld grinder (Dremel Mototool or equivalent) with cutoff wheel
• Ruler (6" or longer)
• Ultra-fine point Sharpie (permanent marker – black works best)
• Two smaller size needle nose pliers (must be sturdy and in good condition)
• Ø7/64" drill bit (to aid in forming loops in wire retainer for screws)
PROCEDURE:
NOTE: BE SURE TO WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES THROUGHOUT THIS PROCEDURE. GRINDING, BENDING, AND CUTTING OPERATIONS CAN BE PARTICULARLY HAZARDOUS. PROTECT YOUR EYESIGHT!!
Perform steps 1 through 5 for each bulb location, then continue with step 6:
1. Remove the 3 screws holding the bulb retaining rings to the headlight assembly – remove the rings and bulb (discard the rings and the screws).
2. If the new bulb is not a standard 9005 or 9006, trim one tab of the bulb as needed for it to fit in the socket keying. (see HIR bulb trimming info. here: http://dastern.torque.net/Mods/HIRmod.html)
3. Grind a recess in the socket area as shown below to allow the bulb to fully seat into the socket with the connector end of the bulb pointing downward (as the headlight assembly will be sitting when installed in the vehicle). It is important that the bulb be able to sit fully flush with the socket for proper focusing and aiming of the headlight.
Top left photo: Before grinding.
Top right photo: After grinding (note that grinding is in the area of the lower screw boss with the headlight assembly upright as installed in vehicle).
Lower photo: Put tape over the bulb socket hole while grinding to keep grinding dust out of interior of headlight assembly. The tape is also useful in helping avoid nicking surrounding material that should not be ground.
http://images32.fotki.com/v1088/photos/4/42816/5829567/108OEMpregrinding-vi.jpg http://images34.fotki.com/v1080/photos/4/42816/5829567/109bOEMpostgrinding-vi.jpg
http://images34.fotki.com/v1078/photos/4/42816/5829567/110Tapeduringgrinding-vi.jpg
4. Make the spring wire bulb retainer as follows (takes about 20 minutes):
• a. Cut a 3-3/8" (80 mm) long piece of spring wire using the hand grinder with cutoff wheel – smooth off any points or sharp edges on the ends.
• b. Mark the wire with a black ultra-fine point Sharpie at the 7 points (including centerline) indicated in this figure (make each mark completely around the wire for maximum visibility):
http://images34.fotki.com/v1082/photos/4/42816/5829567/102OEMwire-vi.jpg
• c. Make the four 90° bends as shown in the following photos – use two pairs of needle nose pliers to make the bends tight (the general curvature along the length of the wire is from the way the wire was purchased coiled – if your spring wire is straight, keep it straight; if already curved, leave it curved):
http://images34.fotki.com/v1076/photos/4/42816/5829567/103204-vi.jpg
http://images32.fotki.com/v1063/photos/4/42816/5829567/104205-vi.jpg
• d. Form the loops for the screws in the ends of the wire using the two needle nose pliers. Bend the loops into a generally round shape (doesn’t have to be perfect), and squeeze the end of each loop with the 7/64" drill bit in the center to accurately control size for good fit of the screws. The loops should be formed such that the black marks nearest each end of the wire are approximately centered on the loop (center of the screw diameter). The loops must be closed enough to completely capture the screws (i.e., not be able to slip off from around screw). Screws must slip freely lengthwise in the loops without any binding.
• e. Make a gentle, radiused bend in the center of the retainer. It should look like this when finished:
http://images32.fotki.com/v1103/photos/4/42816/5829567/105206finishedretainer-vi.jpg
NOTE: DO NOT make any shape adjustments, no matter how minor, to the retainer with either of the screws holding it in the headlight assembly. The plastic of the headlight assembly bulb socket is relatively weak and brittle. Any stresses of tweaking the shape of the retainer would be sure to break the plastic.
• f. With the retainer still not installed, be sure to look across it and ensure that the screw loops are on the same plane with each other (i.e., not going off at angles relative to each other). You should view it like this (notice that screw loops are flat relative to each other):
http://images33.fotki.com/v1067/photos/4/42816/5829567/106207-vi.jpg
• g. Test the spacing of the screw loops to line up with the two upper screw holes of the headlight assembly bulb socket. Adjust the gentle bend in the center of the retainer to line those two holes up so the two screws can both easily be started in the threads of the holes without applying significant bending force to the retainer.
• h. Adjust the two center-most 90° bends to achieve approximately 3/16" (5 mm) for dimension ‘A’ with the screw loops held to a flat surface:
http://images32.fotki.com/v1108/photos/4/42816/5829567/107208dimenA-vi.jpg
• i. Re-check the flatness of the two screw loops relative to each other, the lining up of the screw loops to the bulb socket screw holes, and dimension ‘A’ after any adjustment – adjust until all three are correct).
• j. Test fit the retainer with the bulb in the socket. Tighten both screws only moderately snuggly – just tight enough to pull the retainer screw loops flat against the tops if the screw bosses – you do *NOT* want to crack or break the plastic of the headlight housing by overtightening!
Final test fit of bulbs (left photo low beam, right photo high beam):
http://images33.fotki.com/v1073/photos/4/42816/5829567/114OEM-vi.jpg http://images34.fotki.com/v1078/photos/4/42816/5829567/115OEM-vi.jpg
Side view of installed bulb:
http://images34.fotki.com/v1078/photos/4/42816/5829567/116OEM-vi.jpg
• k. If any #4 screw should strip out the threads in a bulb socket retainer screw boss, simply replace the screw with a #6. Use the needle nose pliers to open up the screw loop just enough to allow the #6 screw to slip freely in the loop. (The type of #4 and #6 screws in the materials list is recommended because they will cut their own threads without creating undue stress in the weak/brittle plastic of the type used in the headlight assemblies.)
5. Remove and discard the blue plastic piece from the vehicle harness bulb connector. (This step is necessary for clearance between the harness wires and the walls of the recessed bulb socket area. Note that this blue part that is being discarded is not necessary to keep the connector and its wires together. It was intended to keep moisture out. Removing it should not cause any problems since the exposed end of the connector is aimed downward for good drainage. However, if this is a concern, you could seal up the cavities around the two wires of the connector with black silicone sealer.)
Blue plastic piece on connectors – remove and discard:
http://images32.fotki.com/v1108/photos/4/42816/5829567/111209Connector-vi.jpg http://images32.fotki.com/v1110/photos/4/42816/5829567/112210Bluething-vi.jpg
6. Remove 1 screw and loosen the other screw of each retainer, swing the retainers out of the way, and remove the bulbs.
Removal of bulb with one screw loosely holding retainer to headlight assembly:
http://images31.fotki.com/v1097/photos/4/42816/5829567/113-vi.jpg
7. Plug each harness connector into the proper bulb – make sure the latch of each connector engages.
8. Carefully clean the glass of each bulb with rubbing alcohol or common glass cleaner (Windex).
9. One by one, being careful not to get fingerprints or other contamination on the bulbs, install each bulb, ensure that it keys and fully seats in the socket, and secure its retainer with both screws. Tighten both screws only moderately snuggly – just tight enough to pull the retainer screw loops flat against the tops of the screw bosses – don’t overtighten. Be sure harness wires do not interfere with bulbs seating flush into their sockets – the retainer spring force should overcome any harness wire stiffness against the wall of the socket area (bending/shaping of the harness wires will aid in that).
10. Properly install and secure the headlight assembly/assemblies in the vehicle.
11. Be sure to properly aim the headlights. If there’s any question on how to do that, consult the shop manual or find a How-To – or pay a competent shop to do it – the cost will be minimal.
PART 2: Complete Instructions for Eagle Eyes Brand Headlight Assemblies
MATERIALS REQUIRED (per vehicle – to do 2 headlight assemblies, 4 bulbs):
Item 1
Qty. 15" (360 mm) long
Spring wire Ø0.045" (recommend stainless steel for corrosion resistance – McMaster-Carr P/N 9495K86, ¼ lb. – 46 ft. – approx. $8US)
Recommended wire:
http://images32.fotki.com/v1089/photos/4/42816/5829567/0_045wire-vi.jpg
Note: Wire cut from a hardware store spring such as that shown in the photo below with enough straight section and of suitable diameter (up to Ø0.049") could be used. They will not be stainless steel, and so will be subject to corrosion. The recommended 0.045" spring wire diameter was found to be ideal for ease of bending and achieving a good bulb retention spring force. If the spring wire is too thick and stiff, it could be difficult to shape with simple hand tools (i.e., needle nose pliers), and can apply too much force and break the plastic of the headlight assembly if shaping and adjustment of the retainer is not close to perfect.
Wire from a hardware store spring can be used, though not ideal (see above explanation):
http://images34.fotki.com/v1077/photos/4/42816/5829567/101201-vi.jpg
Item 2
Qty. 8
#4 x 3/8" long pan-head self-tapping screw (recommend McMaster-Carr P/N 94629A550, box of 100, stainless steel with type 25 threads, which are ideal for this type of plastic – approx. $4US)
Item 3
Qty. – as needed (these are to use in case the threads in the headlight assembly strip out with #4 screws – you may not need any of these; max. needed would be 8 if all holes were to strip out – not very likely)
#6 x 3/8" long pan-head self-tapping screw (recommend McMaster-Carr P/N 94629A670, box of 100, same type as Item 2 above, except #6 – approx. $5US)
#4 and #6 screws of the type recommended:
http://images34.fotki.com/v1124/photos/4/42816/5829567/Screws-vi.jpg
(Note: McMaster-Carr: www.mcmaster.com)
TOOLS NEEDED:
• #1 Phillips screwdriver
• #2 Phillips screwdriver
• Handheld grinder (Dremel Mototool or equivalent) with cutoff wheel
• Ruler (6" or longer)
• Ultra-fine point Sharpie (permanent marker – black works best)
• Two smaller size needle nose pliers (must be sturdy and in good condition)
• Ø7/64" drill bit (to aid in forming loops in wire retainer for screws)
PROCEDURE:
NOTE: BE SURE TO WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES THROUGHOUT THIS PROCEDURE. GRINDING, BENDING, AND CUTTING OPERATIONS CAN BE PARTICULARLY HAZARDOUS. PROTECT YOUR EYESIGHT!!
Perform steps 1 through 3 for each bulb location, then continue with step 4:
1. Remove the 3 screws holding the clear plastic bulb retaining ring to the headlight assembly – remove the ring and bulb (discard the ring, keep the screws).
Note that due to the simple design of the Eagle Eyes bulb socket (no keying recesses), the bulb tab trimming needed for OEM-type headlight assemblies for non-9005/9006 bulbs is unnecessary for fitment to Eagle Eyes assemblies. Also, no modification (grinding) of the headlight assembly is needed for the Eagle Eyes headlights. Neat huh!?
2. Make the spring wire bulb retainer as follows (takes about 20 minutes):
• a. Cut a 3-1/2" (89 mm) long piece of spring wire using the hand grinder and cutoff wheel – smooth off any points or sharp edges on the ends.
• b. Mark the wire with a black ultra-fine point Sharpie at the 7 points (including centerline) indicated in this figure (make each mark completely around the wire for maximum visibility):
http://images110.fotki.com/v1114/photos/4/42816/5829567/202EEwire-vi.jpg
http://images34.fotki.com/v1079/photos/4/42816/5829567/203Ruler-vi.jpg
• c. Make the four 90° bends as shown in the following photos – use two pairs of needle nose pliers to make the bends tight (the general curvature along the length of the wire is from the way the wire was purchased coiled – if your spring wire is straight, keep it straight; if already curved, leave it curved):
http://images34.fotki.com/v1076/photos/4/42816/5829567/103204-vi.jpg
http://images32.fotki.com/v1063/photos/4/42816/5829567/104205-vi.jpg
• d. Form the loops for the screws in the ends of the wire using the two needle nose pliers. Bend the loops into a generally round shape (doesn’t have to be perfect), and squeeze the end of each loop with the 7/64" drill bit in the center to accurately control size for good fit of the screws. The loops should be formed such that the black marks nearest each end of the wire are approximately centered on the loop (center of the screw diameter). The loops must be closed enough to completely capture the screws (i.e., not be able to slip off from around screw). Screws must slip freely lengthwise in the loops without any binding.
• e. Make a gentle, radiused bend in the center of the retainer. It should look like this when finished:
http://images32.fotki.com/v1103/photos/4/42816/5829567/105206finishedretainer-vi.jpg
NOTE: DO NOT make any shape adjustments, no matter how minor, to the retainer with either of the screws holding it in the headlight assembly. The plastic of the headlight assembly bulb socket is relatively weak and brittle. Any stresses of tweaking the shape of the retainer would be sure to break the plastic.
• f. With the retainer still not installed, be sure to look across it and ensure that the screw loops are on the same plane with each other (i.e., not going off at angles relative to each other). You should view it like this (notice that screw loops are flat relative to each other):
http://images33.fotki.com/v1067/photos/4/42816/5829567/106207-vi.jpg
• g. Test the spacing of the screw loops to line up with the two lower screw holes of the headlight assembly bulb socket. Adjust the gentle bend in the center of the retainer to line those two holes up so the two screws can both easily be started into the threads of the holes without applying significant bending force to the retainer.
• h. Adjust the two center-most 90° bends to achieve approximately 9/32" (7 mm) for dimension ‘A’ with the screw loops held to a flat surface:
http://images32.fotki.com/v1108/photos/4/42816/5829567/107208dimenA-vi.jpg
• i. Re-check the flatness of the two screw loops relative to each other, the lining up of the screw loops to the bulb socket screw holes, and dimension ‘A’ after any adjustment – adjust until all three are correct).
• j. Test fit the retainer with the bulb in the socket. Tighten both screws only moderately snuggly – just tight enough to pull the retainer screw loops flat against the tops if the screw bosses – you do *NOT* want to crack or break the plastic of the headlight housing by overtightening!
Final test fit of bulbs (point connector ends of bulbs downward):
http://images110.fotki.com/v1114/photos/4/42816/5829567/211EEcomplete-vi.jpg
Left photo high beam, right photo low beam:
http://images110.fotki.com/v1114/photos/4/42816/5829567/212-vi.jpg http://images34.fotki.com/v1078/photos/4/42816/5829567/213-vi.jpg
Side view of installed bulb:
http://images34.fotki.com/v1081/photos/4/42816/5829567/214-vi.jpg
• k. If any #4 screw should strip out the threads in a bulb socket retainer screw boss, simply replace the screw with a #6. Use the needle nose pliers to open up the screw loop just enough to allow the #6 screw to slip freely in the loop. (The type of #4 and #6 screws in the materials list is recommended because they will cut their own threads without creating undue stress in the weak/brittle plastic of the type used in the headlight assemblies.)
3. Remove and discard the blue plastic piece from the vehicle harness bulb connector. (This step is necessary for clearance between the harness wires and the walls of the recessed bulb socket area. Note that this blue part that is being discarded is not necessary to keep the connector and its wires together. It was intended to keep moisture out. Removing it should not cause any problems since the exposed end of the connector is aimed downward for good drainage. However, if this is a concern, you could seal up the cavities around the two wires of the connector with black silicone sealer.)
Blue plastic piece on connectors – remove and discard:
http://images32.fotki.com/v1108/photos/4/42816/5829567/111209Connector-vi.jpg http://images32.fotki.com/v1110/photos/4/42816/5829567/112210Bluething-vi.jpg
4. Remove 1 screw and loosen the other screw of each retainer, swing the retainers out of the way, and remove the bulbs.
5. Plug each harness connector into the proper bulb – make sure each connector latch engages.
6. Carefully clean the glass of each bulb with rubbing alcohol or common glass cleaner (Windex).
7. One by one, being careful not to get fingerprints or other contamination on the bulbs, install each bulb and secure its retainer with both screws. Tighten both screws only moderately snuggly – just tight enough to pull the retainer screw loops flat against the tops of the screw bosses – don’t overtighten. Be sure harness wires do not interfere with bulbs seating flush into their sockets – the retainer spring force should overcome any harness wire stiffness against the wall of the socket area (bending/shaping of the harness wires will aid in that).
8. Properly install and secure the headlight assembly/assemblies in the vehicle.
9. Be sure to properly aim the headlights. If there’s any question on how to do that, consult the shop manual or find a How-To – or pay a competent shop to do it – the cost will be minimal.
Two additional comments:
(1) On the Eagle Eyes, you could probably re-use the screws that come on them rather than buy the #4's and #6's that I listed. Those screws are 3 mm - about half-way in between the diameters of the #4 and #6, so make sure to adjust the loops for a close but slip fit if needed. (Note that it wouldn't be good to re-use the screws on the OEM assembly - they come with flat heads/countersink screws. They do need to be some type of roundhead/binderhead shape to help press the retainer loops flat and tight up against the tops of the bosses without expanding the loops.)
(2) If you happen to have one OEM headlight and one Eagle Eyes to convert to angle base bulbs, you could buy Ø0.043" wire to use for both rather than a lifetime supply of two different sizes (0.045" and 0.041").
I275westcoastflorida
01-24-2008, 09:47 PM
Nice write up!! Looks easy but hard... I guess thats just me not wanting to mess with the headlight assembly. Anyways do they have angle base bulbs in blue tint? I'd love those!
Nice write up!! Looks easy but hard... I guess thats just me not wanting to mess with the headlight assembly. Anyways do they have angle base bulbs in blue tint? I'd love those!Thanks. Almost every alternate bulb made is the angle-base type. That's the value of this mod. It opens up a whole world of options. Personally I don't like blue tint bulbs for several reasons (offending blue sensitivity glare, reduced useful output), but what you do in your personal life is *your* business (though it does affect other drivers). :)
I275westcoastflorida
01-25-2008, 12:11 AM
Thanks. Almost every alternate bulb made is the angle-base type. That's the value of this mod. It opens up a whole world of options. Personally I don't like blue tint bulbs for several reasons (offending blue sensitivity glare, reduced useful output), but what you do in your personal life is *your* business (though it does affect other drivers). :)
Well the Concorde is actually low enough where its not too bad, but when an Escalade or something pulls up behind with those bright ass lights thats different. I like blue tint because I hate the yellowish-white color that normal lights are.
Actually you might seriously consider the HIR's. They do not have that yellow color to them at all. Yet they achieve that without blue tint. Any tinting reduces efficiency (also - seriously - many people are glare-sensitive to blue-tinted lights). The HIR's achieve greater true light output with the exact same electrical wattage as the original 9005 and 9006. IOW - their efficiency is geater - read why here: http://www.hirheadlights.com/index.htm
See the numbers here: http://www.hirheadlights.com/stats.htm
Low beams:
9006 draw 55W, put out 1000 lumens, 3100K color temp., 1000 hours
HIR2 draw 55W, put out 1875 lumens (88% increase), 3600K color temp., 800 hours
High beams:
9005 draw 65W, put out 1700 lumens, 3250K color temp., 225 hours
HIR1 draw 65W, put out 2500 lumens (47% increase), 3600K color temp., 800 hours
I have two identical Concordes - one is presently with HIR's, one with the original 9005/9006 (soon to be remedied). I just took the below photos of both with their lights aimed at the garage door so you can see the difference not only in the brightness, but in the lack of yellow in the HIR's:
Both photos - left Concorde has straight base 9006/9005 bulbs, right Concorde has HIR2/HIR1 bulbs. I honestly can say that the stock bulbs look more yellow on the road than these pictures indicate (probably because the white door shades both towards white but pavement doesn't) - the color temp. numbers given above tell the true story on that.
Left photo - low beams
Right photo - high beams
http://images31.fotki.com/v1084/photos/4/42816/5855923/IMG_2664blowbeam-vi.jpg http://images35.fotki.com/v1131/photos/4/42816/5855923/IMG_2662bhighbeam-vi.jpg
I275westcoastflorida
01-28-2008, 10:57 PM
Hmm always something to think about.
Here's both on pavement (standard on left, HIR's on right). I took photos of low beams and high beams, but may have had different camera settings for the two shots (it was early this morning - wasn't quite awake) - I may have low and high beam shots backwards. I'm going to try to retake them both tomorrow morning and make sure I use the same camera settings for high beam and low beam photos, and maybe use a neutral filter to cut down on the blown out pixels so you get a better idea of the difference between the two.
Low beam on left, high beam on right (I think? will re-shoot and post later):
http://images29.fotki.com/v1013/photos/4/42816/5855923/IMG_2667blowbeams-vi.jpg http://images33.fotki.com/v1119/photos/4/42816/5855923/IMG_2666bhighbeams-vi.jpg
I275westcoastflorida
01-29-2008, 01:08 PM
For me brightness isnt an issue(mine are fairly bright) I just don't like that yellowish light color, I'd rather have pure white or the blue tint. On another note they do look pretty bright, definetly good for the badly marked places aroud here. I remember in my first gen trep I almost hit a median doing about 50mph because they didnt have it marked and the first gen lights had horrible brightness.
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