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View Full Version : How-To: Remove your Steering Wheel / Clockspring


Yamsi
11-01-2007, 05:56 PM
Thanks to user Antibody for the write-up.


<b><u>Tools needed:</u></b>
Phillips screwdriver
Torx bits: T15, T25, T30 for socket wrench
22mm Socket
Steering wheel puller

<b><u>Parts needed if installing steering wheel radio controls:</u></b>
Clockspring for steering wheel with radio controls
Steering wheel back with radio controls (or a whole new steering wheel with radio controls)

1) Make sure the key is removed from the ignition, and turn the steering wheel 180 degrees to the right (so it's upside down)... you'll feel it click and lock into place. This will make sure that when you install the new steering wheel and Clockspring that everything will be aligned correctly. Note: When you're all done, to unlock your steering wheel, turn the steering wheel to the right some more as you turn the key to the on position.

2) Disconnect the negative battery terminal of the car battery and wait at least 2 minutes. This will make sure that the airbag doesn't go off accidentally while you're working.

3) Remove the screws holding the cruise control buttons to the steering wheel (Torx T15). The screws are in the 2 holes on the the steering wheel back. Note: These can be a bit awkward to get out sometimes due to the angle they're at.

4) Remove the cruise control buttons. If they're difficult to get out with your hands, use a small flathead screw driver and carefully pry them out... then disconnect the connectors.

5) Use a socket wrench with a T30 Torx bit, and remove the bolts holding the air bag module onto the steering wheel.

6) Disconnect the horn connector (on the side of the airbag) and the airbag module connector (in the center). To remove the airbag connector, you need to disassemble it a bit... simply pull out the black piece, and remove the yellow piece which is held in by two side clips (a small flathead screwdriver may be helpful). On the inside, you'll see 2 wires with terminal connectors on the end. Just carefully pull these out.

7) Use a 22mm socket and remove the steering wheel retaining nut. Note: When re-installing this, it should be torqued to 45 ft lbs. If you don't have a torque wrench, then just take note of how hard it was to remove and tighten it about the same by feel.

8) Use the steering wheel puller to remove the steering wheel. If you need to take off the back of the steering wheel, it's held on by 3 phillips screws on the steering wheel frame.

Great, the steering wheel is off... now to get to the clockspring:

9) Remove the steering column housing top. To remove this, press on the seam between the top and bottom half until you feel it click on both sides and just pull up (the rear half of the top comes up first).

10) Before you can remove the bottom half of the steering column housing, you need to remove the steering wheel tilt lever. It's held in by one T25 Torx screw. Note: Before you remove it, tilt the steering wheel all the way up for the next step.

11) Remove steering column housing bottom. It's held in by two T15 Torx screws on the bottom of it. Note: When pulling it off or putting it on, you need to slightly twist it over the key cylinder.

12) To remove the clockspring, remove the 2 phillips screws attaching the clockspring and disconnect the 2 clockspring connectors.

Just follow these steps in reverse order to put everything back together with your new clockspring and/or steering wheel. When you're finished, and you've turned the ignition to the on position, the airbag indicator should turn on and then back off (like it normally does) if things are a-ok.


<b>Additional notes:</b>
Before you install a new clockspring, make sure it's aligned properly. The little plastic window on it should be showing the yellow indicator. If it isn't, then turn the inside ring until you feel it click and lock into place (the yellow indicator should now be visible).

If you're new to installing things on your car, you should know that all the connectors have sort of a "trick release" (usually clips) that you need to disengage before you can pull the connectors out.

<b>Additional notes for installing steering wheel radio controls:</b>
There's a new connector on the clockspring that connects to a connector on the new steering wheel back. The cruise control connectors now come from the steering wheel wiring instead of directly from the clockspring.

If your new clockspring looks like it has a different airbag connector than the old one, don't worry... just disassemble the connector (it's easy, just unclip the yellow plastic piece and then the rest comes apart), and on the inside you'll find the same 2 wires with terminal connectors on the end. The colors of the wires may be different, but that's no problem either... they're wrapped so they don't get twisted accidentally, so just put them in how they naturally go into the holes. The car's airbag indicator will let you know whether things are ok later.

The new cruise control connectors from the steering wheel back may be slightly different from the old ones. They may have a small plastic ridge that wasn't on the old ones, so they won't fit. Just use a pair of really small cutting pliers to cut them off (5" cutting pliers should work), the extra plastic pieces will practically fly off... nice and easy!

Dodgaholic
01-16-2008, 03:41 PM
Here are some pictures I took during my install of the steering wheel controls. Thanks to the author of this guide, and to Steve for the parts, and the assistance with the project.

Rotate the wheel 180º to the right.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Now get your tools together or whatever, to kill a few minutes and allow the airbag capacitor to discharge.
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Dodgaholic/Mods/Wheel%20Controls/NegCable.jpg

Cruise control buttons removed. After pulling the screw, simply grab and slide toward you. Disconnect the green harness on each control.

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Dodgaholic/Mods/Wheel%20Controls/Cruisebuttonsremoved.jpg

Remove the two T-30 bolts and slip off the airbag. Disconnect the horn. Remove the airbag connector. Mine is a newer style than this how-to and is removed by squeezing the tabs on the side and pulling it out. I got this from Steve after I had already don it the cave man way, and disassembled it :(
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Dodgaholic/Mods/Wheel%20Controls/AirbagBack.jpg

Remove the nut from the spline, and use a wheel puller to remove the steering wheel.
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Dodgaholic/Mods/Wheel%20Controls/Splinewnut.jpg
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Dodgaholic/Mods/Wheel%20Controls/Spline.jpg

After pulling the wheel, remove these three screws to separate the wheel from the housing. This is if you are adding the audio controls. Otherwise skip to the next step.
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Dodgaholic/Mods/Wheel%20Controls/RemoveHousing.jpg

Remove the top portion by pushing in the sides at the seam, til you hear it snap, then lift it off. Disconnect the two part harness from the clockspring from behind.

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Dodgaholic/Mods/Wheel%20Controls/Clockspring.jpg

To remove the lower cowl and get to the screws that hold the clockspring on, unbolt the tilt lever for the steering wheel and remove. Remove the two screws holding the cowl on. You can now pull it off the left side and then over the ignition switch on the right. Remove the two screws holding the clockspring in place. Sorry, I forgot to take more pictures from this step.

Replace the clockspring, and reassemble everything in reverse.If you were adding the controls, enjoy your new mod!

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Dodgaholic/Mods/Wheel%20Controls/Finished2.jpg
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Dodgaholic/Mods/Wheel%20Controls/Finished1.jpg

00R/T
01-16-2008, 03:45 PM
Nice pics Chet! Is everything working well?

Dodgaholic
01-16-2008, 03:47 PM
Yes, works perfectly and looks great. None of the cowl imperfections show at all!. Thanks again buddy!

00R/T
01-16-2008, 04:05 PM
No problem. I'm glad things are good.

joekd
01-18-2008, 11:25 AM
Thanks to this thread I swapped my damaged leather steering wheel today with a new one in about 15 mins flat

It's not a tough job but was helpful to know all the tool sizes and get them ready in advance

Dodgaholic
01-18-2008, 11:35 AM
Yep, it's nice to have a resource like this place!

01Intrepid
03-07-2008, 07:53 AM
SWEET....... I'm getting my new clock spring from the dealership in on monday and i'll def be using this HOW TOO........ Thanks guys!!!

01Intrepid
03-07-2008, 01:19 PM
Oh yea, If anyone is looking for the 7 wire clock spring i got mine on order at the dealership for $71.70 Brand new..........

300maximilien
11-07-2008, 06:30 PM
What is the best type of puller to use? Or doesn't it matter? Do the puller legs fit into the two holes to the right and left of the spline?

DrDodge
11-07-2008, 06:35 PM
I baught a steering wheel puller set,,,, was 110.00 bucks but worth it,,, *I guess you could use a 3 jaw puller

Peva
03-30-2009, 09:42 PM
...Disconnect the negative battery cable...Now get your tools together or whatever, to kill a few minutes and allow the airbag capacitor to discharge...If the ignition has been turned off, it has already been discharging - the only power connections to the airbag module are *both* turned off when the igntion is turned off - airbag module can't tell the difference between ignition switch being off and battery being disconnected. :) (want proof? see page 8W-43-2 of FSM)

04TrepEs
03-30-2009, 09:44 PM
Rather be safe than sorry, I don't need a broken face taking an airbag off. I'd Still recommend taking off the neg battery terminal.

Peva
03-30-2009, 09:51 PM
Rather be safe than sorry, I don't need a broken face taking an airbag off. I'd Still recommend taking off the neg battery terminal.So do I. That doesn't negate the fact that disconnecting the battery doesn't drain the charge any better or faster than simply having the ignition turned off. I agree that extra precaution is warranted.

300maximilien
04-06-2009, 02:05 PM
What is the best type of puller to use? Or doesn't it matter? Do the puller legs fit into the two holes to the right and left of the spline?

Since no one ever answered....

I rented one (puller) for free from Advance Auto and yes the bolts screw into the holes to the R/L of the spline. The size of the bolts are 3/8" - 16x4" according to the kit I rented

04TrepEs
04-06-2009, 03:06 PM
So do I. That doesn't negate the fact that disconnecting the battery doesn't drain the charge any better or faster than simply having the ignition turned off. I agree that extra precaution is warranted.

Then why even post that disconnecting the battery doesn't do anything? Some stupid idiot gonna think it's okay and leave the battery on and he's gonna do something and spark the bag and have it go off and they hurt

TCPMeta
04-06-2009, 05:52 PM
When dealing with anything electrical you should disconnected the power source.

Would you put your hand into a unplugged blender then plug it in with your hand still in the blender?
Would you hold two ends of a bare electrical cable while some one else plugs it into the wall?
Would you touch the transformer from a TV that has not been discharged?

Peva
04-08-2009, 08:40 PM
Since no one ever answered....

I rented one (puller) for free from Advance Auto and yes the bolts screw into the holes to the R/L of the spline. The size of the bolts are 3/8" - 16x4" according to the kit I rented3/8" - you sure? I'm not saying you're wrong, but I would have expected metric threads.

Then why even post that disconnecting the battery doesn't do anything?I didn't say that. I said that disconnecting the battery doesn't do anything more than simply turning the ignition off as far as discharging the airbag capacitor. That's different than simpy saying disconnecting the battery doesn't do anything (period) - I never said that.

I believe in getting the facts out. I kept reading where people say that you have to disconnect the battery to discharge the capacitor. That is not true. Facts is facts.

When dealing with anything electrical you should disconnected the power source...Exactly.

Ronbo
04-08-2009, 09:24 PM
I think I bought a steering wheel puller from autobarn.com for like $15. Probably find one for the same price or less locally especially if you rummage in the bargain bin.
Having worked with electronics for over 30 years, I naturally pull the negative battery connection for piece of mind and safety. Don't want to accidentally short something out in the steering column area while you're pulling the airbag/wheel and get a "surprise"! Both of my wood wheel swaps went just fine.

Patel.748
04-08-2009, 09:27 PM
I think I bought a steering wheel puller from autobarn.com for like $15. Probably find one for the same price or less locally especially if you rummage in the bargain bin.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37824

Meanmugga
04-09-2009, 01:56 AM
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37824

I have the same kit...except I paid $6.99, when it was on sale! :punk:

ngram63
07-31-2010, 05:02 PM
Piece o cake on this fix. Very informative. Thanks for the work put in to this post. Made things go so much easier. :cheers2: Neal.